I will give you now the secret to be successfull in your climbing life:
After a huge supper full of seafood and two days of rest, yesterday, Cédric and me, we felt full of energy.
During the day it was really hot, so we headed out to the cliff about four in the afternoon with our camping friends Eva and Dufnis Lopez. We have a lot of fun with this climbing couple, it’s cool to share our climbing days and experiences with them.
Two days ago I did a good work in ‘Fish eye’, an 8c incredible beautiful! So I felt ready to climb it. On my first try my hook was slipping on the crux and I had to change my methodes a little bit.
Cédric did his best try in ‘Papi Chulo’. Hes climbing was just perfect, but on the top of the wall, he wasn’t able to recover and he felt with his elbows as high as his ears, such a pitty! After this attemps, he was completly out of energy and he needed his typical Cédric nap…
At eight, I did my third try and I felt really tired from this steep climbing. But this was a good reason to make a perfect ascent, because when you are tired, you don’t have to right to make mistakes.
And yes, I did it!;-) All the physical part in the bottom of the route I had to climb really quickly because I was out of power. But in the higher part I felt like in my element. Vertical, technical, little crimpy hold, this is my style.
To be able to climb this great 8c in only five trys was just incredible, I’m really content!;-)
Well, as we know, Cédric is a real competitior. And when his little girl friend is able to climb really good on hard routes, he will do it as well! So he was searching all his energy he still had in his body and he did a perfect ascent of ‘Papi chulo’, 9a+. He did one of his biggest fights of his life and I was not far away to make a collaps when I was giving him a belay, the suspense about his ascent was just terrible to support!;-)
Just one statement at the end: I will give all my excuses for my bad expression, ‘bienvenudos espagna’. It wasn’t my intention to give my personal advise for one route in Oliana and to resume that every route in Spain is soft.
With ‘Fish eye’ I did a real 8c and I would never say something else. So sorry for my honest statement for ‘Full equip’ ( down greading sucks, I know) and for my false expression…