A muerte en Espagne!

Voilà, deuxième  essai en Espagne  et cette fois c’était énorme! Je suis partie avec un suisse allemand, un suisse français et deux vrai françaises, un mélange trop bien!
Avant partir j’étais au lit pendant 5 jours, la grippe! Alors les premier jours j’ai eu un peu la tete dans le cul, mais après bien les patates!:-)

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Les premiers 3 jours on s’est bien amusé dans la grande grotte de Santa Linya. J’ai trop trop aimé de grimper là, les voies sont vraiment joli et bien physique, trop cool.

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On a dormi dans un gite à Os de Balaguer, un petit village trop mignon qui se trouve à 10 kilomètre de Santa. On a aussi voulu faire du cheval là, mais c’était un peu nul, mais drole quand meme!

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Après Santa on est allé à Oliana, un nouveau spot un peu plus au nord. Là pareil, énorme les voies! Et avec le CAF de la France connerie sur connerie…

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Et comme on était bien en falaise au chaud….j’adorre l’Espagne!

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Encore quelques photos de la grimpe, parce que ca on a fait pas mal!:-) Mél et Emeline ont pu faire leur premier 8b, Pascal s’adapté à notre style ( il a fait plusiquers 8b en faisant des bruits très très fort….), Cédric une machine totale (2 8c+, 4 8c, 8b+ flash et 4 8b à vue…pas mal le petit ex.). Et moi, j’ai eu trop du plaisir  jusqu’au dernier jour:  8b/8b+ au premier essaie, 2 8b et 8a+ au premier et encore pleins de projets ouverts. Faut absolument revenir, les 8c’s m’attendent…

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Comme l’hab en Epagne, une grosse Paellia et  fruits de mer tous les soirs. 10 jours là-bas et seulement 2 jours de repos, grimper à mort avec une grande grande motivation, ça c’est moi!
Un jours de pause et après première compétition de bloc en Suisse. Resultat: Je ne suis pas une super – héroique! (J’ai bien raté parce que j’étais morte morte morte….)
Mais qui voudrais changer 10 jours de grimper à fond dans du rocher magnifiques contre un petit succès sur des prises en plastiques?;-)

A lots of rain here in Spain!

Paellia àlà CédricWell, my first climbing trip to Spain, could be better…The weather couln’t be worser, since I arrived, it was sunny one day and the rest of the 10 days only rainy and foggy…Ok, honestly the 1. January was also a sunny day but I was really NOT able to climb!:-)
I’m here with Cedric. Finally we realized that we are not able to be in a realationship, but the friendship couldn’t be better!
We met a lot of good Frenchguys and other strong climbers in all the different sectors around Barcelona and everybody tried to find some dry rock.
The first two days we climbed with Gillaume and Alizee in St. Linya. I climbed a beautiful 8b there but already the second day the tufas went from humide to wet so we moved to Margalef. One sunny day there and a big paellia for the new ear, great!

Paellia fight!Then Siurana, the paradise in the fog…Well, it’s everywhere the same: wet, wet, wet….5 more days, hope that I will see the sun once more!

Back to civilisation

The Tuzgle climbing rock

The Tuzgle climbing rock

The Tuzgle climbing rock

The Tuzgle climbing rock

The Tuzgle climbing rock
The Tuzgle climbing rock

I’m sitting in the airport of Buenos Aires and I’m thinking about the last 6 weeks of my life here in Argentina. All I can say is: WOW!

After one week of traveling and organization, 7 French guys and myself left Jujuy with a super overloaded pick-up truck into the desert.
After 2 nights of acclimatization we arrived at our destination: a large canyon on 4200 meters in the middle of nowhere in Argentina. An area full of boulder problems and climbing lines.
Everething to discover, nobody toutched this rock before!The potential was so immense that it was hard to decide where to start.

After setting up our nice base camp in the middle of the canyon, we took our crash pads and started to search for new boulder problems on the big blocs that are everywhere around our camp. It was fantastic!!

Discovering new lines, brushing and the climbing on it, something really special.

We soon realized in the first few days that climbing on 4000 meters and in an ultra dry climate is not an easy thing. The physical effort needed was so much more than at home and the skin was so dry and fable that our hands were full of big cracks and cuts all the time.

Besides climbing, our life was really simple and basic: We woke up with the sun and after a long breakfast we played cards, took a bath in the salty river beside our camp and cleaned the dishes and our cloths in it.

Each day we went out for bouldering or searching new problems til the night.Then the temperature dropped from 25 degree until 0 degrees Celsius.So we usually went home, made a big fire and cooked simple meals on it.

After the first week, Mike Fuselier arrived with his Girlfriend and a drill machine. That was great and allowed us to bolt some sport climbing routes. Fantastic lines in perfect volcanic rock.

The climbing was perfect, the landscape incredible beautiful and in the group there was always a super fun ambiance. I was really, really happy because we were absolutely timeless. Everybody was just there to pass a good time. No stress, no contact with the rest of theworld. Just the good group, the nice camp, the lines and one big project: the vulcan Tuzgle ( 5460meters). And we did it!!!;-)

After a month of just cleaning, climbing and filming, I sure missed having a good, hot shower after a long climbing day, or to just sit on a table and eating a real meal.My body felt a little bit burnt out too. It was time to return into the civilization.

After one month we came back to Jujuy and it was so bizarre! So many people, cars and traffic. Anyway, only after 3 days we adapted on the normal life rhythm.

The last week I spent traveling around in the beautiful paye with Mike and Anais. The rest of the group had already gone back to Europe or continued the journey in the South.

A funny week, full of new places and travels, a lot af good meat and Empenadas, wine testing, horse trips in a thunder storm and incredible landscapes. To that always lots of laughing, laughing and laughing.

Photos and route descriptions will be coming as soon as possible, for the film you have to wait a little bit!

First ‘first ascent’

It goes longer with Ovomaltine‘Omkari fuer Fortgeschrittene’

Since last sunday, there is a new route on the Mullern Alp, Glarnerland.

Kind of a super flat, super technical and super nice 7c+.

…special thing for me, to make a first ascent…

Thank’s a lot to Stefan Ringman!Touristenfoto…

“Amazonas” and more…

nina_euphorie_471.jpgAfter 6 weeks of only bouldering, I missed climbing on a good clif with an 80 meter rope and 15 quickdraws on my harness; Time to go to Voralpsee!

A lot of work for my underarms, but not only for the mines: hard for Arnau too, my (boulder-) climbing partner and for the locals Beat Kammerlander and his girlfriend.

But in the end, motivation is the way! So I tried “Amazonas”, a long Voralpsee 8b with 2 big bouldercruxes.
Not like in bouldering, where you can fall 100 times, I had to relearn to be really focused and concentrated.

After the sent the adrenalin in my body was as such as high, that I just wanted more and more! Beat proposed me “Lucys Fortschritte”. First part 7c+ and than 5 more bouldermeters, makes 8a+.

After work ,I sent this route too, but you can’t imagine how my forderarms were explosed and the big fight I made all the way long! That’s why I like Voralpsee….;-)