Aeschbacher

Für alle schweizerdeutschsprechenden Leute: Donnerstag 16. Juni um 22. 20 auf SF1…

Laufzeit: 57′ · VPS: 22:20

Moderator Kurt Aeschbacher

(Copyright SRF/Merly Knörle)

Kurt Aeschbachers Gäste sind voller Passion: Der 94-jährige Bankier Hans Vontobel hat sich ein Leben lang vor allem für seine Mitmenschen interessiert. Das Bezwingen steiler Felswände ist das Lebenselixier der Sportkletterin Nina Caprez. Sven Broder hat ein Buch geschrieben, wie man Vater wird und trotzdem Mann bleibt. Und ein Kreuzbandriss hält den talentierten Nati- und FCB-Spieler Valentin Stocker vom geliebten Fussball fern.

Hans Vontobel

ist ein Bankier alter Schule, wie es ihn fast nicht mehr gibt. Über Jahrzehnte leitete er die Geschicke der Bank Vontobel. Für ihn ist der Mensch das Mass aller Dinge – und nicht der kurzfristige Profit. Nach seiner Pensionierung hat er verschiedene Stiftungen gegründet, die dem Wohl der Menschen dienen, darunter die Stiftung Kreatives Alter, die Preise vergibt für herausragende Werke pensionierter Menschen.

Nina Caprez

ist in Küblis im Bündner Prättigau aufgewachsen und klettert seit ihrem 13. Lebensjahr fürs Leben gern. Die 1986 Geborene gehört mittlerweile zu den weltbesten alpinen Sportkletterern. Sie bezwang unter anderen eine steile Felsformation in Südfrankreich, die vor ihr erst drei Männer geschafft hatten. Seit Kurzem lebt sie im französischen Grenoble, wo sie das ganze Jahr hindurch optimale Kletterbedingungen hat.

Sven Broder

ist Redaktor und Kolumnist bei der Zeitschrift Beobachter. Der zweifache Vater hat einen informativen und humorvollen Ratgeber geschrieben, der helfen soll, die Leiden und Leidenschaften junger Väter zu lindern: «Papa steht seinen Mann – von der Kunst, Vater zu sein und Mannsbild zu bleiben». Broder gewährt darin Einblicke in das Leben eines modernen Vaters und erzählt mit einem Augenzwinkern vom Balanceakt zwischen Partnerschaft und Kindererziehung.

Valentin Stocker

wurde 2008 in die Schweizer Fussballnationalmannschaft aufgenommen und schoss bereits im ersten Spiel ein Tor gegen Zypern. Der junge Luzerner mit Jahrgang 1989 liebt das Fussballspielen über alles und musste sich diesen Frühling damit abfinden, nicht aktiv dabei gewesen zu sein, als sein Team, der FC Basel, am 25. Mai 2011 erneut Schweizermeister wurde.

Dream lines…

There are some lines in the world, where the path of a passionate climber has to go through. One of them can be found in my favourite climbing place, in the gorges of Verdon.

tom-et-je-ris-nina-11

‘Tom et je ris’ is a pure endurance route (8b+) and simply a must for a passionate climber! I was sharing this little adventure with my good friend Mike Fuselier. You can’t imagine the mission it was to find the line..! After hours of errantry we finally found the belay of the route, but the colonettes were wet from the heavy rain 4 days ago. What a shame! Well, ten days later, everything was dry and we were so excited when we were standing once again on the top of the route . Mike was checking out the moves on the abseil down and sent it right after that.

tome-et-je-ris-bd-111

I did a proper work out of the route and ten minutes later I did a go. About one hour later with the forerarms completly pumped, I reached the top. Thanks to Mike for the hours of joking and laughing and to Fred Labreveux for the nice pictures.

tom-et-je-ris-nina-5

tom-et-je-ris-nina-10

Three days after the Verdon trip, my boyfriend Cédric and me were already on the ferry to Corsika to retry ‘Délicatessen’. This was our second journey to the col of Bavella because of the rain during our first stay three weeks ago….

delicatessen

The first day was really frustrating. Of course, there was no more chalk on the wall and also it was so hard to get used again to climb on this flat and technical wall. The route had even turned harder since Cédric had broken a little hold on the crux on our first trip. After checking out and falling down plenty of times on the crux section, Cédric could finally climb the first 8b with quite some luck!;-) He did the next two pitches, 7c+ and 7c,  directly but on the flat 8a pitch in the end, he had to try three times before sending it. I was climbing in top rope and I can tell you that I had no chance to climb all the sections. I was really happy for Cédric but also rather demoralized for the next day…

But after a good meal and a night full of sleep, the confidance was back and after three trys in the 8b, I found the right balance for this slab and could send this delicated pitch. Arriving at the first belay, I could feel the adrenaline throuhout my body. With this bunch of energy I felt like flying through the next four pitches. Once more on the top, I was recognizing what a privilege it is to have the opportunity to climb such incredible walls!

dsc01145

dsc01147

dsc01151

Many thanks to Arnaud Petit and Stefanie Bodet. Arnaud was bolting this route a couple of years ago and the two of them were renewing all the bolts right before our first arrival in Corsika. I have to admit that ‘Délicatessen’  is the most beautiful and aesthetic line I`ve climbed so far. Its difficulty is mainly given by the very dedicated style rather than by the physical effort. Your feet and legs are suffering much more than your arms!;-) I absolutely recommend this piece of art to everybody!
Thanks also to Stefan Schlumpf who once more was sharing a big adventure with us and for his fantastic work.

Here is the topo,  go for it, it’s so fantastic!

topo-delicatssen

Corsika, too much rain!

To be honest, I’m a little bit frustraded…We’ve had such bad weather in Corsika, that it was impossible to climb Délicatessen.

The first day we were climbing in this incredible wall, I was fan!. After an 1,5 hours approach to the wall, the route starts cash with an 8b. An 8b on granit, wow, really technical and not easy at all. The next two pitches, a 7c and 7c+, more physical, crag climbing, but also pure balance…pitch 4, an 8a, was a 4 meter long 7B boulder problem on a terrible flat…

Two days in the route and after that it starts to rain and rain and rain….near the coast side the weather was not so bad, but in the mountains of Bavella, it was always cloudy and raining all the time. After five days we were so sucked and we went home.

Ahhh, I don’t like to leave a project, but I will go back when the weahter is good for this beautiful line!Once more, tbc!;-)

Enjoy the pictures from the first two days and you will see more after the redpoint in a few weeks!;-)

sc_clb_corsica_d44959

sc_clb_corsica_d44977

delicatessen3

sc_clb_corsica_d44996

sc_clb_corsica_d453031

sc_clb_corsica_d45361

sc_clb_corsica_d45477

sc_clb_corsica_d45554

sc_clb_corsica_d45635

sc_clb_corsica_d45665

sc_clb_corsica_d45695

Two week’s in Oliana, the performance résumé

Me and Cédric, we were climbing about two week’s in the beautiful cliff of Oliana. It was our first travel with our home made ‘climb-mobile’. This was a great feeling! (After some brake down’s on the border..)

dsc00928

dsc00930

The time to go climbing outside was perfect because during the day it was really warm (perfect for sunbathing) and in the afternoon when the rock was in the shassow, it was really freezy and a good frictions! After three month of cold we were also so happy to be outside and to feel the sun, rock and fresh air…

dsc_6468

So first I gave a belay to Cédric in ‘el gran blau’, an incredible 50 meter long 8b+/8c. He felt on-sight on the really top and so I was motivaded to try this route as well.

dsc_6651

This route took’s me a lot of trys because I lost all my endurance during the winter, so on the top my forderarms were always explosed!

Cédric sent the route on his third try and after on-sighting ‘humilides pa casa’, the famous tufa 8b+ ans ‘Full equip’, he choosed his project of the trip: Papichulo, 9a+

dsc_7071

Climbing in Oliana was really tiring, because you are spending a lot of time in this long routes and it’s really hard to manage the physical effort. But Cédric and me, we are really psyched for rest days as well, specialy near the sea!

dsc00941

dsc00944

dsc00964

dsc009581

We loved the fresh seafood and I’m shure that it was the best thing for our sore muscles!

Full of energy every day, I was changing my project and I tried ‘Full equip’, a really soft 8c. After one work out, I climbed the route on my second go. A big fight, it was great!
After this sent, my mind was so free and after two days of rest I finally sent ‘el gran blau’ on my worm-up. Just after that, I was so psyched to climb more hard routes and so I attacked my project from this trip ‘Fish eye’, a wonderful 8c.

dsc_7299

After two times of working out and also two restdays, I climbed this incredible line on my fith go. It was a perfect go, I felt really good and I was just happy to climb, that’s all!

dsc_7383

Infect from my good vibes, Cédric sent ‘Papichulo’ just after and I could say that it was a perfect day!;-)

1

I think that I was a lot more happy for the send of Cédric because he was working hard for one week long on this route and he did a huge fight in it! I was confused because I climbed Fish eye so quickly, that I was looking for something harder where I have to fight like a tiger as well!
After a good celebration of our performances ( with too much wine…) I was choosing a new project: ‘Mind control’ 8c+.

dsc_6700

This long route was just perfect for me and after one good work, I already gave my go’s. On my third go I wasn’t far away to send and I knew that after two or three restdays, I would be able to send.

11

After two week’s of hard climbing, we were getting so tired and mainly Cédric has had his dose of ‘pushing you body’ and the only thing that he wanted to do was to go home for caveclimbing. For me as well, I missed Grenoble and in case of a couple of restdays and a probably send of ‘Mind control’ , we drove back home to go climbing under the earth!;-)

The power of seafood

I will give you now the secret to be successfull in your climbing life:

dsc00958

dsc00968

dsc00965

After a huge supper full of seafood and two days of rest, yesterday, Cédric and me, we felt full of energy.

During the day it was really hot, so we headed out to the cliff about four in the afternoon with our camping friends Eva and Dufnis Lopez. We have a lot of fun with this climbing couple, it’s cool to share our climbing days and experiences with them.

dsc00970

Two days ago I did a good work in ‘Fish eye’, an 8c incredible beautiful! So I felt ready to climb it. On my first try my hook was slipping on the crux and I had to change my methodes a little bit.

Cédric did his best try in ‘Papi Chulo’. Hes climbing was just perfect, but on the top of the wall, he wasn’t able to recover and he felt with his elbows as high as his ears, such a pitty! After this attemps, he was completly out of energy and he needed his typical Cédric nap…

dsc00973

At eight, I did my third try and I felt really tired from this steep climbing. But this was a good reason to make a perfect ascent, because when you are tired, you don’t have to right to make mistakes.
And yes, I did it!;-) All the physical part in the bottom of the route I had to climb really quickly because I was out of power. But in the higher part I felt like in my element. Vertical, technical, little crimpy hold, this is my style.

To be able to climb this great 8c in only five trys was just incredible, I’m really content!;-)

dsc00971

Well, as we know, Cédric is a real competitior. And when his little girl friend is able to climb really good on hard routes, he will do it as well! So he was searching all his energy he still had in his body and he did a perfect ascent of ‘Papi chulo’, 9a+. He did one of his biggest fights of his life and I was not far away to make a collaps when I was giving him a belay, the suspense about his ascent was just terrible to support!;-)

Just one statement at the end: I will give all my excuses for my bad expression, ‘bienvenudos espagna’. It wasn’t my intention to give my personal advise for one route in Oliana and to resume that every route in Spain is soft.
With ‘Fish eye’ I did a real 8c and I would never say something else. So sorry for my honest statement for ‘Full equip’ ( down greading sucks, I know) and for my false expression…

Trop dur ces vacances de grimpe!

dsc00936

Après avoir grimpé une petite semaine à Oliana, il nous fallait deux bons jours de repos. Le plan c’était d’aller vers Tarrascon dans un super parc d’attractions mais pas de bol, il était encore fermé!

Du coup on s’est garé avec notre ‘climb-mobile’ juste devant la plage et on s’est fait un pur souper au fruits des mers.
Le matin, déjeuner à la plage, ensuite se gaver en glace….que du bonheur!

dsc00941

dsc00944

Sur-motivé après ces deux jours de repos, on a commencé la grimpe le jour d’après sans grands discussions. Moi cash dans ‘Il grande blau’, le 8b+ qui m’a déjà couté quelques essayes et j’ai pu enchainer avec un beau combat et avec les pieds qui tremblaient comme une machine à coudre sur la dâle finale. Ben je suis super super contente!;-)

Coté Cédric, il a fait trois essayes dans ‘Papichulo’ et il était vraiment pas loin d’enchainer!
Après mon petit combat, je me suis lancé dans ‘Fish eye’, un 8c tellement superbe! J’ai fait deux montées de travail et là je me sens bien pour tapper des essayes, a muerte!

Et hop, un petit coup de proteines et ça va faire bientôt!;-)

dsc00953

Et ça c’est pour les grosses vaches, pour que le cul dans les 8c tire moins en bas!;-) En tout cas, on est toujours trop bien ici en espagne!

dsc00954

Quick news

Well, yesterday we really wanted to make a rest day, but it was impossible, we were too motivaded!

Also the suspense if Adam will climb his new route on his ultimade day, was too big! So we moved at four in the afternoon to the cliff and we just arrived on time. Adam did the new start of his 9a+, Shaxi Raxi, what meens that he did an 8B+ boudlerproblem before the 9a+. He supposed a hard 9b, not so bad!

Good vibes on the cliff, but my fingers were hurting from the sharp pockets in the steep route of ‘El gran blau’. But I was really motivaded to try ‘full-equip’, the 8c Cédric did on-sight yesterday.

After a wourk out I found the route really easy and so I was full of confidence in me and positive energy to climb this route. And so it was, I climbed it on my second go, it was great!;-)

Well, this route was never 8c, in my opinion it was comparable to an 8b in Céuse or in Voralpsee….so I’m really happy about my big fight, but I would never say that I did an 8c…

Oliana

Après trois mois de travail et d’entrainement, j’ai pu finalement partir en trip de grimpe avec Cédric. On s’est acheté un super bus et on a tout refait dedans, donc un vrai climb mobile!

dsc00895

Malheureusement on est tombé en panne juste à la frontière de l’espagne est on est resté bloqué à Perpignan pendant deux jours. Vivement le cinéma!

Brev, avec un peu de patience on est finalement arrivé à la belle falaise d’Oliana.

dsc00929

Vue qu’on a pas encore fait trop de la falaise cette année, on voulait commencer assez cool. Mais bien sur, Cédric a attaqué directement dans un 8b+/8c, ‘Il grande blau’, et en le regardant grimper, j’étais surmotivée pour la essayer aussi. Cool alors, une voie qui me mets trop en forme. 50 mètres de haut, ça m’entraine bien en conti! Malheureusement je suis tombé déjà 4 fois tout à haut, mais ça va faire vite.

Coté Cédric, il a déjà pu faire ‘Il grande blau’ au troisième essaye, ‘Humildes pa casa’ 8b+ à vue et ‘Full équip’ 8c, aussi à vue.
Motivé par Adam Ondra, il a commencé a bosser ‘Papy Chulo’ 9a+ et je pense qu’il va se donner a muerte!

Voilà donc, super ambiance avec l’équipe tchèques à cette falaise magnifiques avec des voies trop belles dans un style que j’aime vraiment bien!

Ce que j’apprecie le plus c’est de vivre à l’arrache dans le climb mobile, se faire des petits curry’s de fou, avoir le temps pour soi-même, pour lire, pour regarder des films, être tranquille, pas avoir d’obligations….la belle vie quoi!;-)

dsc00928

dsc00933

dsc00932

J’ai dû mettre celle-la car elle montre une chose incroyable: Cédric se douche à l’eau froide!