Wogü

Wogü is a multipitch route located in my dear Rätikon. When my ex-partner, Cédric Lachat, asked me last winter if I would be interested in climbing that route with him, I was psyched to check it out.

Beat Kammerlander’s masterpiece Wogü has been free-climbed only 3 times: by Adam Ondra in 2008, Edu Marin in 2016 and Roland Hemetzberger in 2017. I liked the opportunity to have Cédric as a rope gun since Beat’s routes are famous for high exposure. Why not let him figure out the holds, and then join to play the climbing game with him.

We planned to make a movie, showing how we had evolved differently since splitting up back in 2014 and looking at where we each had ended up today. Despite our separation, we kept up a high complicity when it comes to big wall climbing.

 

But then COVID-19 arrived and I took the decision to spend the lockdown in France with my boyfriend and 4 other friends in a small mountain town. No climbing for a total of 6 weeks. Time for a new life experience, like so many people around the world (read more about it on the “confinement chronicles”). 
Wogü was getting nearer and I got swiftly back to project mode after such a long time enjoying life and drifting a bit.

Preparing a big climb is something I love to do. What I like the most is organising and setting up all the things we needed for the projects. Making climbing movies is one of my favourite things in life and that motivation helped me a lot to stick to the project of getting into that hard core 8c multipitch route. Because, full disclosure, my climbing level for a route like Wogü was miles away at that time. However, my doubts about the feasibility of the project because of my weak climbing shape were quickly washed away by the idea of supporting Cédric as much as I could and as well as managing the logistics of the film project.

 

Climbing level apart, I also had some doubts about spending so much of the Spring time with my ex during. The previous winter, when Cédric and I had decided to climb Wogü together, I was single. Little I did suspect that I would meet “that boy” shortly after and end up spending a few months of lockdown with him. Needless to say, my priorities changed quite a lot between the planning of Wogü and I felt some tensions before it all started, although I got full support from my boyfriend Jérémy.

Then the day arrived to get going and by the time Cédric and I were done climbing the very first pitch of Wogü, all my doubts had flown away. I felt again this deep complicity with him while being on the wall, this endless trust and support. It was simply great and way above my expectations.

That was certainly due to the fact that we were totally alone in the Rätikon, a place I love so much and I know so well. The energy up there is magical, powerful and everything is simply pretty. Every time I’m there, touching this pure limestone I feel at home. The film crew was top notch, everyone on the wall was an expert and had confidence in the gear and the ropes we set up. We also had a clear storyboard for the film. Cédric was his usual climbing-machine and guided us through all these hard pitches. Since I had almost zero expectations on my climbing level, I was simply satisfied with every movement I could manage and with little expectation usually comes greater enjoyment.

I had no pressure and so much energy to put into the project overall. The more we spent time on the wall, the fitter I got and the more I could fully express myself in the climbing, which was good for our synergy on the wall. Despite the enormous level difference between Cédric and I, I could figure out tricky sequences which helped both of us and guided Cédric to his very clear goal of making a ground up ascent. He fell twice though, trying a ground up, at the third pitch, a very bouldery 8c.

Time passed, we got more and more dialled in and confident and learned to be more strategic. I freed some pitches here and there, while Cédric got closer and closer to freeing the entire piece. But then I somehow started to feel strange one day, while trying to free pitch 7, another 8c.

I’ve struggled for the last year with my menstrual cycle, and recently it had become more and more of an issue. On this day, a problem with my contraceptive device caused a huge amount of bleeding, pain, and fatigue. My energy level dropped significantly, but I really wanted to support Cédric as he was so close to send.

 

Three days later, it finally what happened. He started climbing at 5pm, machine mode full on. I belayed, jumared, managed the logistics so he could just focus on climbing and performing. On a little ledge, just before the final hard 8c pitch I almost passed out, but the big drive of Cédric and his perfect climbing was reason enough to support him until the summit. I was so impressed by his performance, zero mistake, perfect execution. It was very beautiful to watch and my physical problems apart, it’s one of the most incredible moments him and I have shared. Climbing ground up without a single fall has been by far one of the biggest performances of Cédric.

Nina Caprez & Cédric Lachat at the end of WoGü

Nina Caprez & Cédric Lachat at the end of WoGü

 

Needless to say, after that he and I for different reasons, were simply destroyed. We still had to work on the wall for another couple days to complete the filming project. Those days felt like very hard work for both of us, but we had to finish the job.

Nina Caprez – Marc Daviet – Cédric Lachat

Happy and relieved, we completed the project and had a huge fondue party at the hut with the whole crew.

It took me over a month to recover and now looking back, I realize many things. It has been the first time where I clearly experienced the differences between male and female climber. I can see how rich and complex it is to be a women and also how complicated and painful it can be. But as always, I trust life. There was a reason why it all happened and it really helps me to accept.

Yes, things changed in my life, I have other priorities now. Which doesn’t mean that I won’t stick to climbing, at all! Also, it has been the first time in my career that I fully supported someone and that I was able to take a step back while being more giving and compationate with myself and others around me. I don’t know if I have to go back to Wogü. I don’t need to know the answer to be honest. I just listen and see where it will all take me…

 

I felt so lucky to work with so amazing people on that project and I would love so say thank you to:

Cédric Lachat, my climbing partner who saved my life many times

 

Mathieu Rivoire, for being the most creative and funnies director ever

Guillaume Broust, Marc Daviet, Julien Christ and Leonard Bernard for the super efficient filming and taking pictures on the wall

Jérémy Bernard for the great support and drone shots

Mama and Bea for being the best Parduzerhütten “chefs”

And everyone being involved and helping out!