“I believe in magic and that I can be magical”, that was Lynn’s answer on our way to Yosemite, when I asked her if she had doubts in our project.
Free climbing the Nose requires even more than that; a huge commitment, core strength, finger power, solid legs, endurance, trad climbing knowledge and then, on top of that, a big dose of magic!
We both started to work on the route almost three weeks ago. In order to make things efficient, we set up a static line that went down to the Changing Corners pitch, and later all the way down to the Great Roof. Those two pitches are by far the key points of the route. Now, the Great Roof seems possible to me, but for Changing Corners I will have to invest much more time. This pitch is one of the most confusing things I’ve ever been on. I somehow figured out all the moves, so I know it’s possible, but that’s it. I can barely link sections and it’s also very condition depending. Patience!
Lynn somehow wanted to free climb the route again (at the age of 57!!!). Over the last 25 years, she had the impression that route only required a good technique, and the smaller you are, the better, especially for Changing Corners. Over the past three weeks, seeing me work on it and trying to climb the route herself, she finally realized how big her performance was 25 years ago. She did not climb that thing because she was small or because of her small fingers. She was simply very, very strong, in every aspect…way ahead of her time.
She realized this several days ago, while we were sitting below the Great Roof in our portaledge on Camp 4. We had pulled up the static lines and made a training session by free climbing from the ground up to Camp 4, which is 600m above the ground. I wanted to free climb the Great Roof next day. I knew that I still needed to work on Changing Corners for an eventual send, but I decided to approach the route in sections.
We talked about how it felt to be up there again, as the warming rays of the sun gave way to the quiet light of the full moon illuminating the wall and the valley below. She was deeply touched and I saw a teardrop running down her face. The next day, she became even more supportive and psyched for me freeing the entire route one day. Lynn told me that she got so much support when she had been working on the route, and that now she wanted to give me the same.
That’s why, in my eyes, she is still to this day, the most respected climber in the world, and she owns it.
I have to say that overall I couldn’t have imagined a better partner for the Nose than her. Lynn is always positive, always laughing and having fun, and there has been no single moment of drama or panic. I do have to say that I feel responsible for logistics and safety on the wall and since she hasn’t been on a big wall in 20 years, oh dear! sometimes I need some patience. At the same time, I feel very honored and respected. She put her life in my hands without doubts, was willing to learn some new big wall techniques, and encouraged me all the time to work hard, although the conditions haven’t been “chocolat”.
To be honest, I never imagined to be able to free that route in the one-month period I have with Lynn, but it’s important to me to try my very best and to free climb as much as possible. That’s what I owe her and it’s not only about me on this project at all; it’s a celebration of Lynn’s incredible first free ascent 25 years ago.
In a few day’s we’re gonna climb the entire route from the ground up, freeing as much as we can. It will be a beautiful way of celebrating: her anniversary with this route, the friendship we have created over the last month and everything life has taught us since.
And after that it’s up to me to continue the work and to take everything she has passed on to me. I’m not going to be Lynn, but she’s the most inspiring person I have climbed with. I felt this magic while being with her on the wall, and after strength, power and lots of practice, that’s definitely the key to success!
