Archiv der Kategorie: ALPINE SPORTCLIMBING

Jupi, I’m so psyched! Yesterday I realised my project ‘Hotel Supramonte’!:-)

I’m so happy, because my fitness before coming here to Sardinia was not so good.

First day my boyfriend Cédric climbed the route as well and he did the biggest fight of his life! My dear, the poor Cédric was so destroyed from the Boulderworldcup in Switzerland three day’s before. He finished 4th and he put all his energy in this competition.

The last time he missed the on-sight, so he really wanted to do this route too. Haha, the fights he did, it was incredible!

His attempt was the perfect possibility for me to reclimb the route in toprope and to checking out once again the hardest parts.

Cédric reached tho top with only one fall in the first 8b. But he reclimbed it once more from the stand and after he did all the pitches in the first go.

After this hard and longe day, we were completly destroyed and we needed two good recovering days on the beach of Cala Ganone.

Unforunately I lost my contact lens on the second day and so I had to climb with my glasses. My dear, I was so scaried to loose them in the route so I attached a little band with tape. Yes, you can laugh, I was looking like a grand mother!;-)
Sometimes we have to improve and to accept!

Like always before attacking a big project, I was really nervouse! But at the same time sooo psyched, because the route is juste fantastic!
The first 7b was an easy going, but the second 7c+ was really hard for me. Limit I did the bouldercrux. Cédric jumared all the pitches and he also haul the bag. So I just had to climb and to fix the rope.

Pitch 3, was a long endurance 8b with a crux in the first part. I loved this pitch, it was defently my favorite one! I really enjoyed to climb this one and it gaves me like little fins!;-)

The next long 8a+ was the hardest for me. There were a lot of scaried moves and sometimes strange to climb. And like I knew that it was the hardest for me, I felt really on the top….ahhhh…this fall costed me a lot of power. But on the second go I did also this one and from this point it was clear for me that I will go to the really end of the route!

The next 8b was a long traverse on lillte colonettes and with the perfect cold wind I climbed the crux without hasitation.

When I reached the top from this pitch, I was sooo happy and the rest of the route (7c, 7a, 7b, 7b+, 7b and 6b+) was like climbing  to the heaven.

After a little soloing in the last 6b+, Cédric and I, we reached the top of Hotel Supramonte! JUPI!!!!

Now we will profite some more days here in Sardinia. Climbing easy sportclimbingroutes and in a few days, we will return to take some good photos with Stefan Schlumpf. (I agree, my photos are really really bad!!!!;-))

The last week I’ve been climbing with Cédric in Sardinia. Our objective was ‘Hotel Supramonte’, a really famouse multi pitch route. The route counts 10 pitches and three of them are 8a+ and a lot of hard 7c’s….
I was not shure if I was already fit for this route because of my shoulder, but I had to try!

First day, after a one hour walk, Cédric attacked the route on-sight and he made it really really good! Big fights till the end, it was great to see. But unfortunality after the fourth pitch there was no more chalk at all…so he felt in the fivth pitch, a really technical 8a+ traverse…

Me, I had to go in toprope and honestly, I hate it!;-) You can’t try any hard bouldersequenses above all in the overhanging…
Well, I did my best to memorise all the pitches and I was encouraging Cédric a lot.

After pitch 5, Cédric and I, we have been absolutly destroyed, so we rapelled down. After this first journey in the route, I was a little bit down, because I was so dead only after five pitches. Also the one hour walk back to the basecamp charged me and so I haven’t had a lot of hopes…

But after a good dinner and breakfast, my mind was changing a lot and so we attacked the second day, this time it was the poor Cédric which had to climb in toprope!;-)

This time, we advanced really well and also the climbing was competly different for me. I only had to try some tricky sequenses in the hardes pitches and so we were climbing till pitch seven, to the famouse bivouac of the ‘Hotel Supramonte’.

After a good restday in Cala Ganone with a lot of seafruit and icecream, I was ready to give a go!

Tactic and motivation was perfect but not at all the weather! In the night it begans to rain and the wall was more then wet, it was a swimming pool!

My dear, the big mission to getting the quickdraws out of the wall!

Also for the next two days the forecast was not good….well, nothing to do!

For the last two days we were looking for a dry cliff. So we were climbing in the huge cave ‘Millenium’. A 40 meter stalactite cave, impressive! But also here it was really wet, so it was more like swimming in the wall than climbing!;-)

Anyway, for me no reason to be sad, not at all! Sardina is so beautiful, that I can’t wait to go back. And this will be in three weeks, I’m really really psyched!!!!

I would say: to be continued…..;-)