“I believe in magic and that I can be magical”, that was Lynn’s answer on our way to Yosemite, when I asked her if she had doubts in our project.

Free climbing the Nose requires even more than that; a huge commitment, core strength, finger power, solid legs, endurance, trad climbing knowledge and then, on top of that, a big dose of magic!

We both started to work on the route almost three weeks ago. In order to make things efficient, we set up a static line that went down to the Changing Corners pitch, and later all the way down to the Great Roof. Those two pitches are by far the key points of the route. Now, the Great Roof seems possible to me, but for Changing Corners I will have to invest much more time. This pitch is one of the most confusing things I’ve ever been on. I somehow figured out all the moves, so I know it’s possible, but that’s it. I can barely link sections and it’s also very condition depending. Patience!

Lynn somehow wanted to free climb the route again (at the age of 57!!!). Over the last 25 years, she had the impression that route only required a good technique, and the smaller you are, the better, especially for Changing Corners. Over the past three weeks, seeing me work on it and trying to climb the route herself, she finally realized how big her performance was 25 years ago. She did not climb that thing because she was small or because of her small fingers. She was simply very, very strong, in every aspect…way ahead of her time.

She realized this several days ago, while we were sitting below the Great Roof in our portaledge on Camp 4. We had pulled up the static lines and made a training session by free climbing from the ground up to Camp 4, which is 600m above the ground. I wanted to free climb the Great Roof next day. I knew that I still needed to work on Changing Corners for an eventual send, but I decided to approach the route in sections.

We talked about how it felt to be up there again, as the warming rays of the sun gave way to the quiet light of the full moon illuminating the wall and the valley below. She was deeply touched and I saw a teardrop running down her face. The next day, she became even more supportive and psyched for me freeing the entire route one day. Lynn told me that she got so much support when she had been working on the route, and that now she wanted to give me the same.

That’s why, in my eyes, she is still to this day, the most respected climber in the world, and she owns it.

I have to say that overall I couldn’t have imagined a better partner for the Nose than her. Lynn is always positive, always laughing and having fun, and there has been no single moment of drama or panic. I do have to say that I feel responsible for logistics and safety on the wall and since she hasn’t been on a big wall in 20 years, oh dear! sometimes I need some patience. At the same time, I feel very honored and respected. She put her life in my hands without doubts, was willing to learn some new big wall techniques, and encouraged me all the time to work hard, although the conditions haven’t been “chocolat”.

To be honest, I never imagined to be able to free that route in the one-month period I have with Lynn, but it’s important to me to try my very best and to free climb as much as possible. That’s what I owe her and it’s not only about me on this project at all; it’s a celebration of Lynn’s incredible first free ascent 25 years ago.

In a few day’s we’re gonna climb the entire route from the ground up, freeing as much as we can. It will be a beautiful way of celebrating: her anniversary with this route, the friendship we have created over the last month and everything life has taught us since.

And after that it’s up to me to continue the work and to take everything she has passed on to me. I’m not going to be Lynn, but she’s the most inspiring person I have climbed with. I felt this magic while being with her on the wall, and after strength, power and lots of practice, that’s definitely the key to success!

Photos: Jan Novak

Je me suis toujours dit que dans ma vie de grimpeuse, j’aimerais bien mettre les doigts dans « Tough Enough » à Madagascar. Ce genre de voies dures me fait rêver mais elles me mettent mal à l’aise aussi car j’ai peur de l’échec. Je n’ai jamais eu le courage d’y aller, mais comme la vie est bien faite, ce printemps l’occasion s’est présentée. J’ai eu l’honneur d’accompagner mon amie Mélissa Le Nevé qui, de son coté, a déjà passé 5 semaines dans la voie l’été dernier.
Avec Mélissa on a une belle et longue amitié, presque comme une histoire d’amour. C’est elle qui m’a assurée et soutenue dans ma première grande voie dans le Verdon « Ultime démence ». C’est elle qui m’a appris une bonne partie du savoir vivre et de la folie française. C’est aussi avec elle que je me fritte le plus souvent car on a toutes les deux des caractères très forts, un élément incontournable pour une voie comme « Tough Enough ».

A notre arrivée bien retardée à Antananarivo (on a mis 28 heures pour décoller avec Air Madagascar alias « Air Peut-Etre » de Paris), je me retrouvais confrontée à une sensation nouvelle. Pour la première fois, je visitais un pays d’Afrique, et de ce fait, me sentais malgré moi étrangère par la seule différence de couleur de peau. Cette nuance marquant inconsciemment une distance entre les locaux et nous m’a tellement fracassée, que j’ai craqué après 10 jours sur place dans la vallée du Tsaranoro.

C’était un après-midi bien chaud à 400m du sol, en plein de milieu de la longueur 9 en 8b+ avec le joli nom Gecko. Les jours précédents j’avais brassé comme une folle et une fatigue profonde s’était installée. Grimper dans une des grandes voies les plus dures au monde fatigue, certes, mais il y a aussi toutes les impressions nouvelles qui semé un grand bordel au fond de moi. Mél, assise au relais sur une sellette en bois, m’avait moulinée depuis le haut pour que je puisse mieux caler cette voie de 50m.

Après notre arrivée à Antananarivo, la capitale, on avait mis une journée de bus pour arriver sur place, accompagnées par Jan Novak qui a vécu deux ans à Madagascar.

Surexcitées et les avec crocs pour grimper, Mél m’a fait découvrir les premiers jours la voie par le bas. J’ai pu aller en tête dans les 6 premières longueurs et j’ai kiffé la sensation de grimper dans une voie avec zéro traces de magnésie et très peu parcourue. Je les ai trouvées très difficiles, mais avec l’habitude de prendre ces petites prises, souvent avec le pouce, et avec une assurance dans la pose des pieds, j’étais assez confiante et pensais qu’elles allaient vite tomber.

Pour pouvoir travailler les 4 dernières, qui sont toutes dans le 8b+, on a fait le tour pour monter au sommet du Karamboni, d’ou on peut descendre tranquillement sur des cordes statiques.
Ces 4 longueurs sont simplement ouf… La première fois quand tu descends dedans, c’est un mur lisse, lisse, lisse… tu te demandes où sont les prises. Heureusement, Mél se rappelait encore bien où  les trouver. Equipées toutes les deux d’une brosse métallique, les sacs à pof remplis de magnésie et plusieurs brosses Faza, on préparait la voie pour qu’elle soit grimpable.

Le style est… atypique et un peu particulier… le bassin collé contre la paroi pour essayer de rester sur ces prises inexistantes, tout en finesse, en équilibre et des chaussons affutés.

Normalement je me débrouille pas mal dans ce genre de voies, mais j’ai rencontré des réelles difficultés et tombais partout. Je me suis tout de suite rendue compte que c’était trop gros et trop dur pour pouvoir faire quoi que ce soit en trois semaines. Je commençai donc à être tendue et je me posais pas mal de questions sur le but du séjour. La frustration qui se déclenche quand on n’arrive pas trop à bouger dans une voie, s’installait de plus en plus.

Et nous voilà à ce fameux pétage de plombs par Nina « Caprice ». Je balançais toutes mes frustrations sur Mélissa, la pauvre. Le fait que je n’arrivais pas à m’exprimer dans la voie comme je l’avais imaginé au début ont provoqué des sentiments étranges, mélangés à la colère que je pouvais ressentir face au comportement de certains touristes occidentaux vis à vis des Malgaches.Des siècles d’esclavage et de racisme ont laissé une marque profonde dans les relations entre les locaux et les visiteurs blancs qui peinent à surmonter leurs préjudices et trouver une attitude juste et d’égal à égal.

Faut dire que l’escalade est quand-même un sport qui nous montre l’image claire de qui l’on est et de ce qui nous travaille au fond de nous. Grimper est comme regarder son ego en face et, oui, parfois ça fait mal. Je me suis rendue compte que toute ma vie j’ai évité d’affronter des voies que je n’étais pas sûre d’enchaîner et que je recherchais la facilité. Je ne sais pas ce que cela veut dire de se lancer dans quelque chose qui ne mènera peut être pas à la croix et j’ai jamais appris à gérer ça. Toutes mes performances ont relativement été acquises et personnellement j’éprouve une grande satisfaction à à aboutir et à clipper des relais.

Mélissa a su vraiment bien réagir. A la place de me rentrer dedans, elle m’a juste laissée faire, vider mon sac et elle m’a regardée avec beaucoup de douceur, contente que je lâche enfin prise.

Quand j’y repense, l’image me fait bien rire : « Mélissa l’Enervée » et « Nina Caprice » perdues au fin fond de Madagascar en train de faire une scène sur une des plus belles parois du monde, à faire fuir les caméléons et lémuriens.

Après ça, on a pu pleinement savourer le reste du séjour. L’escalade je ne la voyais plus du tout comme un échec, bien au contraire ; chaque mètre grimpé, c’était ça de gagner. Petit à petit on a réussi à déchiffrer des longueurs, toujours avec ce beau sens du partage et excitées de faire face à la difficulté. On a réussi à en enchainer quelques-unes, dans d’autres on a été proche et dans certaines on est toujours très loin !

Mettre ses doigts dans cette voie, c’est une rencontre avec soi, sa partenaire de grimpe, mais aussi avec un lieu inconnu : c’est la première fois que je grimpais en Afrique et cette expérience fut loin d’être anodine…

Appréhender cette voie aux 10 longueurs aussi différentes les unes que les autres, c’est un peu comme apprivoiser les rapports humains : c’est un jeu d’équilibre qui s’apprend pas à pas. C’est en fin de compte l’ouverture d’esprit et l’abaissement des barrières mentales qui fait que l’on commence à se sentir bien dans sa peau. C’est accueillir avec humilité et simplicité de nouvelles cultures, de nouvelles histoires humaines. Comme avec la voie dont j’ai appris après un certain temps à accueillir la difficulté, la taille et la complexité, passer du temps là-bas m’a apporté une grande richesse et petit à petit j’ai commencé à trouver ma place.

Après avoir passé trois semaines au camp catta, les Malgaches qui y ont travaillés étaient devenus nos amis. Lors de notre départ ils nous ont dit qu’on les avait touchés par notre attitude et la volonté de partager et de comprendre leur vie, ce que ne font pas forcément les touristes qui souvent ne font que passer et observer à distance.

Aller sur la terre rouge et affronter une des voies la plus dures au monde est un peu comme une belle histoire d’amitié ; cela ne m’étonne pas d’ailleurs de la vivre avec Mél.  Cette histoire est réelle et parfois douloureuse mais elle est si belle aussi ; avec un peu de recul on voit sa richesse et la façon dont elle nous fait vibrer.

En tout cas une chose est sûre et certaine : l’an prochain on retourne approfondir cette amitié avec Tough Enough … 😉

J’aimerais dire merci du fond du cœur à Melissa pour tout ce qu’elle m’apprend dans la vie et ces moments de partage intenses.
Merci Jan d’avoir apporté ta légèreté et grande qualité de vivre le moment présent pleinement et tranquillement.

Merci MSR pour votre super matos et en particulier pour le filtre d’eau qui est vital quand on veut vivre un peu à la brousse.
Merci Petzl et Arcteryx de nous avoir fait confiance sur ce projet et de nous avoir soutenues financièrement. On remet ça l’an prochain !

Merci Hard Bar et Lyofood de nous avoir données de la bonne énergie sur la paroi et au camp avancé au sommet. On s’est régalée avec vos barres, repas et petit déjeuners et ça nous a changé du riz blanc.

Merci Faza Brushes de faire les brosses qui résistent à ce granit super abrasif qui bouffe normalement les brosses en peu de temps (on a utilisé que deux sur dix pendant tout le séjour !)

Tout simplement un grand Merci Madacascar !  On se retrouve l’été prochain !

I’m standing in the sun, surrounded by well-dressed people. It’s my childhood friend’s marriage, in Switzerland. I’m watching people laugh; sip on a glass of tasty wine; kids are playing around. They are running on the green grass, climbing up trees and some are playing in the dirt. I close my eyes and images go through my mind from the place I was only a couple of hours ago.
My mind is switching back and forth between here and Lebanon. I can also see kids playing around there. Their attitude is the same and I realize how true those little human beings are.

As an adult, my last mission in the Middle East has been tough but very enriching. While bringing climbing to Syrian refugees and Lebanese youth affected by the war, together with the non-profit organisation ClimbAID, I realized once more the meaning of freedom and liberty.

I went to Lebanon for the second time as a volunteer to help ClimbAID. A year ago, Beat Baggenstos, the founder of the organisation, had the idea of building a mobile boulder to bring climbing to Syrian refugees and Lebaneseyouth.
Climbing is a powerful activity with plenty of facets. It shapes the values we share and defend: the sense of sharing, trying your best, dealing with fear and the overwhelming feeling of freedom while living fully the present moment.

When I arrived, we had to deal with a broken axle on the Rolling Rock and, resolving a problem in the Middle East is very different than in Switzerland. So the project was somehow hanging in the void and I was getting jittery. Just before I left, I was in great climbing shape from spending many month’s outdoors rock climbing. I think when I’m in that mode, my mind is not very open to seeing what’s going on in the real world. Spending time on rocks, focused on trying one’s hardest is not very relevant and it doesn’t resolve any problem on this planet.

Once the truck fixed and on the road again, we moved towards different refugee camps in the Beqaa valley. The beautiful feeling of bringing my own experiences from rock climbing here took over me.

I like to think that my climbing values are adaptable anywhere on this planet. I supported the team in teaching youth to climb harder, to climb together and to help each other. We encouraged Muslim girls to climb and to move (more or less) freely, to laugh, to cry, to show their vulnerabilities and to overcome them in a beautiful way. Climbing is simply great and I feel very fortunate to have the freedom to go out and share this activity all over the globe.

During one of the climbing sessions on the Rolling Rock, we asked a kid what it meant for him to climb on this colourful truck. He told us that before the war he had been used to climb in the mountains, but now there is no access anymore because of mine fields. And now he’s very happy to be able to climb a bit, even if it’s not in the mountains, because he really loves it.

That’s just one of the many stories that touched me. In those situations, (not far from the minefields) I see myself like in a movie but then I realize that it’s reality and “chicken skin” overcomes me. Honestly, when I’m living those moments, I can’t really explain what’s going on in my heart and head. I simply live them. Later comes the time needed to reflect and analyse.

Maybe these moments at the edge are making me who I am. I’m not reaching out to them, they just happen. I can’t control circumstances, but I can sign this contract with myself to be ready when things take a sharp turn. That’s the same in climbing and maybe that’s why I never panic or lose my mind.

Aside from our sessions on the Rolling Rock, I took time to explore the country and to go climbing in Tannourine, one of Lebanon’s best spot. It always takes time to switch from the Muslim rules (especially concerning clothing) into a Christian place like in Tannourine where you can climb in shorts and tank top. It had been very warm, 26 degrees in the shade, but I climbed pretty well, since it had also been very dry. It was very cool to redpoint Tannourine’s first 8b and to climb some other 8a’s. Lebanon’s climbing community takes the weekend and sometimes some days off during the week to go there. It’s always very enriching to talk with my friends, especially about the refugee situation.

If you think, Lebanon is only a 1/4 as big as Switzerland and has 6 mio people living there. 1/3 of them are refugees, which makes it the country with the highest concentration of refugees in the world.

Looking at those numbers does change the perspective from what the word “tolerance” might mean to us in Europe …. Despite being having so little space to share among so many, people somehow manage to live and work together in Lebanon. This year, ClimbAID’s base was a house in the middle of the Beqaa valley. Somewhere in Chtoura, surrounded by typical concrete buildings, colourful agriculture fields and by many refugee camps. Refugees live in sorts of huts, made of wood and tarp. Some seems quite sturdy, others much less so. Syrians are often employed by the local landowners. They work all day in the fields. But life somehow brings everyone together. As foreigner, you would not be able to tell apart who is who among the kids. They all love climbing, failing, getting better, and topping out. In the end, we’re all the same.

I am very thankful to Beat from ClimbAID who pushed me out of my comfort zone from time to time. To all the volunteers as well, who believe in the project and throw themselves in, heart and soul. I feel grateful to get to meet so many people who are willing to share their own experience of climbing with others. I also want to thank my partners and sponsors who support me on projects like Climb AID and give me the opportunity of becoming a better person.

Thank’s Budget rent a car for offering a nice car to the team for that years trip!

Here is a link with a 15% discount for your next car rental by entering that promo code: L820200

I am back from five weeks in Leonidio. A rich and enlightening stay! The climbing itself is quite a treat for any style and grade level. But with sea all around, the landscapes alone are worth the trip.

I went all out in these majestic cliffs. During the winter I had felt that 2018 would be a year for climbing for me. Just climbing. So I put the cold months to good use and headed into the season in good shape. The investment is paying off. It was a real pleasure to hit the cliffs and feel the good climbing sensations coming back. Leonidio does have a lot of routes that suit my style but there is nothing quite like feeling strong and balanced. My spirit is free, my health impeccable, and my motivation for sending hard routes at its peak.

I don’t think I have ever on-sighted as many routes in the 8s in so little time before. And my legs are surely paying the price in bruises and scabs!!

I was based in Leonidio but moved quite a bit around. I went to a mythical marble cliff near Athens (both figuratively and literally…there is a temple there!). I also went down to Kyparissi a few times to check out this chill out little Ceuze.

Some partying and lending a hand to help build a new climbing shop made for quite a complete life. Everyday, the same ritual: oranges, lemons, and pomelos freshly harvested, and a bath in the cool turquoise waters. A pure life in a pristine place.

But beyond climbing, I would also like to share something that often struck me during my stay. In today’s world, it feels that we are told so often how to measure out success in life. One should have goals, study, get a job, make a good living to support a family and set a safer future. One should consume all sorts of things to take good care of oneself and the look of others.

I have always felt that I could not fit there and that my life could not fit in any of that. I never really think too hard where I would end or if my life would be called successful. Climbing led the way, from my first motion until today. I just know that I am healthy, passionate, and these are the two most precious things life gave me.

In the climbing community, I am used to hang out with people who often share some of my perspective. We have found happiness in a few simple things, like pushing our physical and mental limits. Buying a new car never quite makes the picture.

In Leonidio, I was fortunate to meet people from all walks of life who are there because they don’t fit. Or because the measures of success on the continent don’t suit them. I met people who had chosen to live in caves, to leave everything and come back to something of a natural state. Many had left overwhelmed by the pressure from their bosses, parents of peers.

Greece is often known for its somewhat chaotic organization, and of course as a European country in deep economic crisis. But it seems to me that the Greeks are not less happy in fact. Maybe because they heart is full of kindness and sharing part of common sense. I was very touched by the community of Leonidio.

Climbers or locals, everyone had a very open mind, without much of a judgment for one another. It felt like everyone had room to breath and be himself.

I spent quite some time hanging out with Germans from Berlin and my Austrian friend Bernd Schlögl. We explored the area, opened and cleaned new routes together and pushed each other in our projects. That collective energy is a real boost!

There are 4 ascents I’m proud of:

THE ultimate “Megakante” I climbed on my second go. An 8b line among the finest, above the village of Leonido.

In the Hada sector, I made the first ascent of “The Swarm”. A long and steep new 8b from Bernd, which I helped cleaning and figuring out betas.

Two lines in Elona: “Goliath” the 60m long king line of the sector. I tried that one on-sight and fell only one meter from the chain. I red-pointed that one a couple of days later. And my first 8c in 3 years called “Hanuman”. Such an excellent fight and I have to say that I missed that feeling of overcoming so much!

All in all, I’m very happy about my performances and the way I approached them.
The climbing game is so simple and I am so thankful I can find such happiness in it….;-)

One again, I’ve been travelling for 5 weeks with a rental car from Budget.
Here is a link where you cant get a 15% off by entering this promo code: L820200

Yosemite

Top of El Cap with an incredible view on Half Dome Pic: Benoit Merlin

The vibes in the valley… although the high traffic, climbers or non, it’s worth to be there at least once in his life. But attention: take it in the right dosage!;-)

Highlight to me has been the life on the wall, by far. I climbed two times El Cap, once per “Nose” and the second time by freeclimbing “El Nino”. It’s somehow hard work, but sleeping on a portaledge, calculating water and food and entering in a symbiose with your partner, transforms the hard hauling etc into a pleasure. Here are some pics form the Nose (it’s a busy route, but you can’t miss that if you’re a climber) and El Nino, a 13.c route with more crimps then cracks. But no traffic and people on that one:

El Cap and the Nose, Pic: Francois Lebeau

The nose and it’s beautiful cracks. pic took from the meadows by Tom Evans

Same route, same spot! Pic: Benoit Merlin

The simple life on a portaledge in the early morning

The hauling, a real pain in the ass!!!
pic: Tom Evans

Spending multiple night on that big peace of rock is unique!
pic.: Francois Lebeau

The Rostrum

A must! I’ve rarely climbed a multipitch with such a big variation: Offwight, chimneys, fingercracks, an overhanging roof, technical climbing on crimps. Simply WAOH! It’s also a very famous route, so the best is to go late, around noon, so you can fully enjoy the climbing way behind all the people left at the parking at 6am. The vibes up there are magical!

Morning vibes with friend Ryan Kelly
Pic.: Francois Lebeau

At the end of the offwight
Pic.: Francois Lebeau

Waiting on the belay station
Pic.: Francois Lebeau

Pic.: Francois Lebeau

Separate Reality and Power of Tales

You all probably know the famous roof of Separate Reality, another must and so cool to climb! I went foot first in the crux on the lip. Just one pitch below, there is another (very hard) crack to try: Power of Tales. I tried that together with Barbara Zangerl, but we both failed. Reason to try it again during my next trip!

Tales of Power
Pic.: Francois Lebeau

The “nice” finish of Tales of Power!:-)
Pic.: Francois Lebeau

Other things To Do in the valley:

Jumping nacked in the river after a warm climbing day. Drinking a fresh beer in the Meadows. Filling up your water tank at fern springs.

…. cracks everywhere!;-)
Pic.: Benoit Merlin

Red Rocks

I’ve only climbed 3 days in red Rocks and one route I would absolutely recommend: The Original route at Rainbow walls. A 5 Star route, a little remote with an outstanding view on Las Vegas

Rainbow wall
pic.: Benoit Merlin

The original route goes all the way that logical crack dihedral. Grades are sustaining and hard…

The climbing is excellent! Very easy to protect and some bolts. Highly recommended!

Wide open desert feeling, a 20min drive from Las Vegas, crazy…
Pic.: Benoit Merlin

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Towers around Moab

We climbed 4 towers in total while being in Moab. The experience has been unique on all of them, even if the climbing was just ok on some. But one route has had all! 5 star climbing on a totally rad tower in the middle of nowhere: Moses Tower and the route “Primerose Dihedrals” and just nearby, the tower “Zeus”.

Short approach to Moses and Zeus
Pic.: Benoit Merlin

Climbing Moses with view in Zeus
Pic.: Nina Caprez

Just WOW! Phenomenal climbing on top rock
Pic.: Nina Caprez

Sunrise on the top of Zeus with view on Moses.
Pic.: Nina Caprez

2 hours off road driving from Moab to settle down totally alone, a 30 min walk from the towers. RAD!!!
Pic.: Benoit Merlin

Indian Creek

Well, what to say about that place….one of my favorite places on earth!

Simply breathtaking and the feeling of freedom is omnipresent… Pic.: Benoit Merlin

Camping on the spot “Superbowl” with my US friends, surrounded by orange walls
Pic.: Benoit Merlin

The daily campfire
Pic.: Benoit Merlin

It has been my second time in the creek and it was so cool to see my personal improvement since spring! It felt very natural to me to place gear and also I did way better with my jamming, in all different types of cracks. I climbed a lot onsight and flash, always by giving all I had! One route I tried this spring, called “Death of a cowboy”, a 13-, I was able to tick after two more days of investment. Very proud about that!

A pure flash ascent of “Rubens Café”, 12+
Pic.: Michael Pang

“Death of a Cowboy”
DONE!:-)
Pic.: Michael Pang

Big lesson how climbing large cracks by Sam. I got my ass kicked on that route called “Big Baby”.
An 11….
Pic.: Benoit Merlin

Jumping around in “Attitude 0”. No send, but high on my ticklist!
Pic.: Benoit Merlin

We also spent lots of time watching paintings and visiting ruins of the Anasazis. There are so many in the Creek! Pic.: Nina Caprez

The light is simply magic and unique in the creek.
Pic.: Benoit Merlin

You certainly heard about Trumps plan to drastically reduce the size of Bears Ears and Grand Staircase  Escalate National Monuments. There are different options for donating money to help the cause. Here are two different links:

Hayden Found and Accessfund

Thank’s and hopefully we can all continue to keep rocking there!

A simple climbing video.

Sharing an outstanding adventure is somehow easy. You take a picture from a big wall, from an icy mountain, or from a simple outdoor shot while bivvying.

Everyone can relate to that, our eyes and brain can make the connection between the picture we see and to the emotion it brings up: adventure, rad !!!

But how can we communicate about a more personal emotion on a more run-of-the-mill climbing experience? That’s the challenge I wanted to tackle by filming my way on the historical route “To Bolt or not To Be”, American’s first 14.a, located in Smith Rocks.

So when I first touched the holds of the route, it moved something inside of me. That was in October 2016. Earlier that year, I had had to deal with a crazy infection, which almost killed me. For a while I was far away from what I normally do, climbing hard and pushing my limits. Instead, I was struggling with simple things like walking up stairs and that was very hard for my psyche.

But I wanted to get back to my old self again and so I put a lot of energy in recovering. I came back, step by step.

And six months after my illness I was standing on the bottom of this route, intimidated.

I gathered all my courage and at first barely made my way to the top of this 40m route. It looked like I had no chance, but once back in France I knew that I wanted to climb that route and I managed to focus my mind and heart on that climb over the next few months.

In April? 2017, I returned to Oregon and I felt ready. It gave me a big satisfaction to see that my work had paid off. I was in my little bubble, determinated but joyful at the same time.

Climbing a 14.a on small crimps is not a big adventure, certainly not by today’s standards. That’s obvious. But to me it meant a lot. With that climb and the preparation I had to but in before I was able to close a “not so fun” chapter in my live. The chapter of a weak and unhealthy body, struggling and questioning myself a lot.

With that film, I just want to share that experience. My intention was not to make a huge story out of it, but simply to show a healthy and happy climber on some small crimps.

A big thank’s to Ian Yurdin for the long catches and the good time at the cliff.

To Sean Heaverstock for the support and motivation.
To Mikey Schaefer for the warm housing and the rad photographs.
To Julien Nadiras for his excellent work on field and creative eye.
To Arcteryx for making that film happens.
And last but not least, Mathieu Rivoire form Illustruscope for his excellent work by editing that hard peace.

Hanging out with me can be really tough, especially when I want to go big.

This season I hadn’t had the chance to express myself fully. I injured my ankle after which weather and timing kept me to climbing maybe well, but nothing remarkable.

To fix that, I came to Yosemite Valley on Oct. 11 for a second time. Compared to my visit in the Spring, the walls were all dry, which got my head spinning in excitement.

My boyfriend Benoit and I had no real plans. The only thing he wanted to climb was the Nose and so we did. It was our first big wall together and you can imagine how much we sucked … the climbing went really well as I lead and free climbed a big part of the route, but the hauling and putting up the portaledge cost us quite some energy, both physical and mental.

After three days of effort we reached the top, but somehow the feeling we had after being on the same route as perhaps hundreds other parties per year wasn’t as fulfilling as we were expecting.

The upshot is that I was really surprised by my good climbing shape. Unfortunately, that also makes me even more « insupportable » as it brings back that really selfish climber who only thinks of hard climbing and performance. Suffice to say that Benoit had a hard time being around me !

I teamed up for some days with climbing machine Barbara Zangers and we gave some shots at a few hard single pitches. I also climbed the ultra classic multipitch route « rostrum » with my local buddy Ryan.

That somehow calmed my nerves and allowed me to realize what I really wanted: to perform on El Cap, together with the person I love. Bigwall climbing with one’s partner is a real challenge because it is hard work and it brings so many intense emotions.

I wanted it badly and Benoit agreed to be on my side. I chose the route El Niño mainly to, avoid the crowds in « Freerider/Salathé ». These two routes, with a common start and the Nose, look like two highways from the ground.

El Niño is on the West side of El Cap and it is not an aid route, so there are only (strong) freeclimbers on it. The route starts straight with two 13.a’s and a 13.b, followed by lots of 12s and sprinkled with 5 other 13s . It’s not the typical crack route, but rather more crimp and technical climbing, overhangs and overall loooong run outs.

I got really scared when I worked on the first hard pitches. The bolts were placed on weird spots and far away from each other in some hard traverses. I was really lucky because two strong climbers from Sweden were working on the route as well. There was chalk on the holds and some quickdraws in those dangerous spots.

That day I tried twice the three hard pitches, but was far from sending.

10 days later, after tackling the question of how egoistic I should be allowed to be, we packed our haulbags with food and water for 8 days on the wall. At night, we went bivouacking at the bottom of the route where we surprised team Sweden, ready for a push. It so happened that we all wanted to try the route on the same day and more or less around the same time (6am) to climb those first hard pitches in the cool morning cool. It was end of October, but the heat was unbelievable!

Stefan and Alexey climbed before me and they sent and so I did, Benoit belaying and jumaring behind. We were all on a big high, but quickly calmed down when it was time to haul our heavy bags. Benoit and I had to repack ours, because we realized that it would never ever takes us 8 days to climb those 28 pitches.

But still, the bags were so heavy and that first day we almost cried because everything went wrong during the hauling! The bags got stuck everywhere, we had to cut some rope at some bolts, and in general we had such bad luck that we agreed that the Karma wasn’t with us. We put up our portaledge at belay 7 for the night and I was ready to give up and go down next day.

I felt very bad because it was way too “freestyle” for my taste. I also felt bad because I took Benoit with me in this difficult wall, realizing that he wouldn’t be able to climb much. I became somehow … realistic and it seemed to big for us.

Spending a night on a portaledge on El Cap has somehow its own magic. I had a very deep and good sleep and when we woke up next day the world seemed to be changed. We were looking under and above us and this deep sensation of feeling lucky overcame us.

We both were joyful, we laughed a lot and it seemed logical that our way was up and not down.

Because of the tricky hauling, we suffered once more up to pitch 10, the sure ledges,. We arrived there around 2pm, the sun was burning hot and the next climbs to do were 13.a and 13.c.

Team Sweden had sent those pitches early in the morning, in the shade and cooler temps. They only had to haul and to move on. We chilled all four of us on that ledge, trying to make some shade with sleeping pads.

And then my psyche came back and I was ready to climb hard again. So we did. Both of the pitches were really bouldery and after a long effort to work them out I sent both of them on my second go, the last one into the night with a headlamp. Benoit was so stoked and we put up our camp in the middle of the wall, no ledge, just 3 bolts, a portaledge, two big haul bags, a poop tube and our little persons up there.

Day 3 was the biggest and most exhausting to me. I climbed 7 pitches onsight that day, including the very hard Endurance Corner and the 13.a roof called Black Cave. I have no idea how that worked out, I guess I was in a high. After the first hauling that day, our bags felt a little lighter so to be more efficient I climbed, fixed the rope and while Benoit was jumaring, I was hauling. So when he would arrive,I had already set up everything, and was ready to climb the next pitch.

The same day I climbed some crazy chimneys and cool pitches like the Slalom. They were all in the 12th grade and once more I was very happy to follow the chalk traces of force Sweden, always two pitches ahead.

That third night, we slept all four of us on a huge ledge right under the second roof called the Cyclops Eye.

Benoit and I are not really experienced in big wall and we were quite convinced that we sucked at it,. However, watching team Sweden, we realized that we actually were doing quite all right. I guess that the hauling is hard work no matter the experience you bring with you.

So to ease our ascent, we went a bit lighter on ropes, but still holding on to what seemed necessary for our well being : a stove, good LYO food, some desserts, and creams to repair our shattered hands at the end of each day. Some things we had on the Nose we left on the ground like extra clothes and our thermarest mattresses.

Oktober is also a really good season to climb El Cap in my opinion. For one, temps are cooler (or supposed to) and the amount of daylight is perfect. We climbed more or less from 8am to 6pm and it was enough to maintain sufficient power over multiple days.

On our fourth day I climbed again all the pitches onsight, including the really cool « Dolphin » pitch which goes straight through the second big roof. Then we all struggled on the very last pitch called « Lucy is a Labrador », the last 13.a of the wall, 5 pitches under the top.

That one is often wet from what I heard and so it was this time. Alexy, Stefan and I had to give several goes to pass the boulder problem with totally wet hands. But we all did it, because of the team spirit, the loud cheering and the personal obligation to give it all so close to the top!

It was such an enjoyable moment and instead of climbing in the dark to the top of El Cap, Benoit and I we spent one more night in the wall at one of the radest places on the wall, the Igloo, an enormous bloc high up there.

That night was ours, the shared suffering was over and the joy overcame us. I felt so grateful to have freeclimbed my fist route on El Cap with my partner. I know that one day, I will be telling the story to my kids!

Back in the Meadows, after climbing the last 3 easy pitches and walking down from El Cap, ,I asked Benoit if it had actually been fun for him. A cold beer in hand, he answered: “You know Nina, everyone is looking for a different satisfaction in life. Me, I’m not looking for a performance or for the athletic aspect in what we did. Being up on such a big wall during 4 days with you was fun. Really.”

Now we’re on the road! It get really cold in the Valley and so we’re cruising south with our fat rental car on some crazy off roads. Stay tuned for futur adventures.

Budget Rent a car is my official sponsor since August and they offer to anyone who needs to rent a car a 15% off.

Click on that link and enter the promo code L820200 and that’s it!;-)

http://www.budget.ch