This week I’ve had the big pleasure to show around the best sides of Switzerland, my homeland Prättigau, to some of my really good French friends Mélissa le Nevé, Florence Pinet and Gérome Pouvreau.
Before that, we had to go the tade show in Friedrichshafen which is always a big crux in a climber life…anyways, the air of the Rätikon was even fresher after tahat,then ever before.
We had an icredible window of good weather, which is quiet unique for this area: no rain, cold northwind and amazing long daylight till 10 in the evening.
No hesitations for Flo and Gé, the idea of Silbergeier was fixed in their minds. My role as the local guide was to give them all the informations necessary and to share all the little secrets I know about this ultra technical multipitch climb.
Mélissa and me, we took all our courage together and attacked the most ‘flatfull’ route in the whole Rätikon: Hanniballs Alptraum (Hanniballs nightmare….)
I already had some ‘nightmare’ experiences in this route, six years ago. Full of confidence that my foot technique would be better now, we starded to climb while Flo and Gé were ready to touch the first holds of Silbergeier, only 10 meters right of us.
Hanniballs nightmare, this name is defenitly not only an invention, it’s the true and perfect name for this 7c flat monster!
First day we’ve had a look on the frist three pitches and it was so hard for us tho figer out the betas that we weren’t able to have a look on the last 7c pitch. Next day we tried to redpoint but there was no way for us….big fights in the first three pitches (7b, 7b+, 7b+) and then my on-sight on the 7c…no way…no courage to give one more go for the redpoint…unbelieveble…I mean it was not an 8c, only 7b+???? Fortunalety I know the grades in the Rätikon are particulary…
Well, beside loosing a lot of skin, loosing tonns of rubber and big run outs, we’ve had a great great time! Florence and Gérome worked out the whole line, beside the last 7c+/8a pitch and we were ready for a good restday at my mothers house in Prada. Prada means hanging out on a terrasse in the middle of the mountains, Prada means huge barbecues with only meet of the local hunters, Prada means good wine….the pure recovering for body and mind.
Last day, Mélissa and me, we didn’t found enough courage to retourn in Hanniball, we were gardening instead. Yes I know, this could sound a little bit lazy, but everybody who has already climbed in Hanniball knows that it tooks a while before you wanna go back…;-)
The stomace full of chamois meet, Gérome was able to redpoint Silbergeier on this day and this is for me one of the biggest satisfaction I can feel: to help the best I can and to admit all my energy I have for another person. BIG UP Gérome!!!!!!!!!!
More infos about the Redpoint form Gérome on the webpage grimper.com