Archiv für den Monat Februar 2012

One week ago, I recieved a call from my mom while I  was on the way down to Spain. I had to learn with sadness that a good climber friend of mine, Günther Habersatter, has found his death in a avalanche. I’m really sorry for his wife and his three children; Günthi was my rope partner when I was redpointing ‘Silbergeier’.

Climbing with a big sadness is hard, but in another way, climbing makes us really happy and I realized once more, how much we have to appreciate every single day.

I was beginning my trip together with Cédric and our lovely home-made camping car. After two days of climbing in the freezy Margalef, we moved to Oliana, our favourite crag of Catalunya.

Cédric choosed a new 9a+, Chaxi, and I starded two new projects: Pappy Mullat and Mind Control. I put a lot of energy in Pappy Mullat, a route with one big move and after 10 trys, I was still not able to redpoint this one. No sent, but a good endurance training for Mind Control.

For me, Mind Control is a perfect line. The climb is like a voyage and the key to successe is to stay calm and to feel comfortable with all this air unter your ass.

Some days ago, Daila Ojenda sent the route in a perfect style and just after her, Joe Kinder did it in the same way. It was so cool to watch them climbing and I wanted to do the same. The last year I did one work out of Mind Contol, this time I needed 4 more and on my first serious try, I clipped the chain 45 meters high up from the ground. Soooooo nice!;-)

The grade of Mind Control is really not extreme. If somebody will downgread, why not. But honestly, grades are so unimportant. I’ve had the chance to climb such a fantastic line and I feel so alive and my body is full of energy and power. I can realize my dreams, what else counts in live?

The little clip from the ascent will following soon, stay tuned! (We don’t have the best connection)