Sardinia…Hotel Supramonte and more…

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The last week I’ve been climbing with Cédric in Sardinia. Our objective was ‘Hotel Supramonte’, a really famouse multi pitch route. The route counts 10 pitches and three of them are 8a+ and a lot of hard 7c’s….
I was not shure if I was already fit for this route because of my shoulder, but I had to try!

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First day, after a one hour walk, Cédric attacked the route on-sight and he made it really really good! Big fights till the end, it was great to see. But unfortunality after the fourth pitch there was no more chalk at all…so he felt in the fivth pitch, a really technical 8a+ traverse…

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Me, I had to go in toprope and honestly, I hate it!;-) You can’t try any hard bouldersequenses above all in the overhanging…
Well, I did my best to memorise all the pitches and I was encouraging Cédric a lot.

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After pitch 5, Cédric and I, we have been absolutly destroyed, so we rapelled down. After this first journey in the route, I was a little bit down, because I was so dead only after five pitches. Also the one hour walk back to the basecamp charged me and so I haven’t had a lot of hopes…

But after a good dinner and breakfast, my mind was changing a lot and so we attacked the second day, this time it was the poor Cédric which had to climb in toprope!;-)

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This time, we advanced really well and also the climbing was competly different for me. I only had to try some tricky sequenses in the hardes pitches and so we were climbing till pitch seven, to the famouse bivouac of the ‘Hotel Supramonte’.

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After a good restday in Cala Ganone with a lot of seafruit and icecream, I was ready to give a go!

Tactic and motivation was perfect but not at all the weather! In the night it begans to rain and the wall was more then wet, it was a swimming pool!

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My dear, the big mission to getting the quickdraws out of the wall!

Also for the next two days the forecast was not good….well, nothing to do!

For the last two days we were looking for a dry cliff. So we were climbing in the huge cave ‘Millenium’. A 40 meter stalactite cave, impressive! But also here it was really wet, so it was more like swimming in the wall than climbing!;-)

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Anyway, for me no reason to be sad, not at all! Sardina is so beautiful, that I can’t wait to go back. And this will be in three weeks, I’m really really psyched!!!!

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I would say: to be continued…..;-)

Un petit coucou!

Il y a trois semaines, ma vie comme bohémienne a de nouveau recommencé et c’est tellement bien ça!
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Je me suis retrouvé un peu partout en France et j’ai bien reprise l’escalade. Avec mon épaule c’est toujours un peu délicat, mais bon, je fais avec. Je ne peux pas grimper trop dur, alors 8b c’est le maximum mais ça suffit pour les grandes voies!;-)
J’ai torché pas mal des 8a, 8a+ et 8b’s et j’essaie de faire un grand volume car c’est le meilleur entrainement pour mes projets en grand voies.

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Vers Montpellier, j’avais l’occasion de decouvrir un spot énorme, je me suis vraiment amusées dans cette voies mais aussi j’ai pas mal grimpé dans le Tarn car c’est classe quand-même!

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Le truc que j’adore ici en France c’est la façon de vivre. Je suis le beau temps, les belles falaises, mes amis m’accompagnent partout et chaque jours je fais des nouvelles rencontrées avec des gens super! Et bien sur il y a toujours de la folie…;-)

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Comme j’ai déjà dit, je m’entraine vraiment très serieusement en ce moment….;-)

Cette nuit je vais partir en Sardegne, à voir si mon épaule aime bien ‘Hotel Supramonte’….à continuer….